Reuben's Restaurant Delicatessen

It's my final meal in Montréal so I have to have a final taste of smoked meat. Reuben's is located downtown at 1116 rue St. Catherine Ouest. Of all the delicatessens I've visited so far this one's the fanciest. It has a beautiful art deco interior with dark wood panels, and artwork on the wall. The shelves behind the bar are backlit to highlight the high-end bottles of vodka, scotches, and brandies. The staff is well dressed in black collared shirts, and diagonal striped black/grey ties. It's a far cry from the linoleum, vinyl, and stained T-shirts elsewhere.

There's even reasonable quality beer on tap–Rickard's Red and Honey Brown.

To maximize the quantity of smoked meat I order the plate. With over 10oz of smoked meat, fries, cole slaw, pickle, and rye bread, this is a meal and a half. The smoked meat is nice and juicy with medium fat and a peppery outside crust. Washed down with a couple of pints of Rickard's Red this makes for a satisfying final meal.

World Cup in Little Italy

It's World Cup Final Day! And the natural thing to do is hang out in Little Italy with all the flag waving, horn honking, "Italia!" shouting crowds. I emerge from the Jean-Talon métro station at lunch time so getting some sustenance is the first order of business. There's a Vietnamese restaurant nearby without a TV so I bypass the football mad crowd and fuel up on Vietnamese instead of Italian noodles.

After lunch I wandered into the open air market, Marché Jean-Talon. Amidst the fresh fruits and vegetable stands I found a small Italian restaurant and watched the game on their large TV. I wasn't alone standing beside the patio as a small crowd of onlookers gathered as the game progressed. The crowd groaned as Zidane made his penalty shot into the goal scoring the first goal for France. But the tide can turn quickly in soccer and 15 minutes later everyone was on their feet cheering as Materazzi evened up the score for Italy. A few minutes later shock and disbelief as the power on the whole block and many other blocks of Little Italy went out and we were left in suspense over the game.

I made my way across the street to Café Zanetti where they also had a patio and large plasma TV. The crowd was larger here as everyone who was blacked out gravitated to this empowered oasis. The minutes ticked by but neither side could manage another goal. A sudden rush by Italy put the ball in the net and everyone jumped up and roared but were quickly silenced as it was declared offside.

The crowd was on their feet and shouting again for a very different reason. What was Zidane thinking for deliberately head-butting Materazzi? The crowd jeers and hurls epithets at the TV as the ignoble moment is replayed again. I don't blame them as it's certain to become one of the most shameful sporting moments in World Cup history.

After two hours of play it's still tied at 1-1. The tension is as thick as the humid afternoon heat. Everyone knows that it's down to penalty kicks to decide the World Cup champions. As Italy's fifth and final penalty kick goes in, Little Italy just explodes!

It's New Year's Eve, Canada Day, and the Pope's visit all rolled into one. Everyone streams into the main street of Little Italy, boulevard St. Laurent. The entire street from sidewalk to sidewalk is filled with deliriously happy Italians. It's a wave of red, white and green, and Azurri blue parading down the street. The noise is deafening with people employing everything from whistles, to horns, to pots and pans. A semi-trailer truck parked on the street has its air horn continuously blaring. The entirety of boulevard St. Laurent is closed to traffic from rue Jean-Talon to rue Beaubien–the whole stretch from métro station to métro station. The street party will last well into the night, but I have to move on.

Final Jam Session at the Hyatt

Surprisingly I only made it out to two jam sessions at the jazz festival. I guess playing tourist in the heat and humidity of the day doesn't leave enough energy to attend every single one like in Vancouver. Tonight's jam is the last one at the festival. Sunday night is the last evening of the festival but there's no jam session that night. Presumably they don't want any visiting musicians (or fans) to miss their flight out on Monday morning.

Salon Jeanne-Mance is almost full again with only a few seats left in the front near the stage. The chatter buzzes through the crowd but you sense a tinge of sadness knowing that this night marks the end of another festival. There aren't any big name stars at tonight's jam, but there are some talented locals and out of towners. I recognized Australian singer Christina from the first night. She doesn't sing tonight but is hanging out for the last time. Probably the highest profile musicians here tonight are the drummer and bass player from Matt Dusk's band. These guys swing hard and inject a lot of energy into the jam.

Not everyone who plays is good. Tonight we get a hilarious brother and sister lounge act. The middle age pair look the part of a cheesy lounge act. The brother's poofy brown hair and moustache looks 70's retro. The sister's overweight frame is squeezed into a white suit and too much makeup and jewelry. Their overwrought singing and piano playing can only be described as high parody. We get even more of a good laugh near the end of their song as a drunk Quebec biker type goes up to the stage and comes on to her.

I stayed to the very end at 3:00am along with the small group of hardcore music fans. Tired but happy, I leave after host John Roney announces the end of the jam sessions for edition 27 of the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal.

Dave Brubeck Quartet

Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier
8:00pm

This town loves 85 year-old Dave Brubeck. There was a standing ovation for him as soon as he stepped out on stage. While he's a bit slow to cross the stage to the piano, once he's seated at the high backed chair (the only visible concession to his age) his fingers fly across the keyboard.

Altogether there must have been over 200 years of jazz playing experience on stage. Playing with Dave are his current quartet of Randy Jones (drums), Bobby Militello (alto saxophone, flute), and Michael Moore (bass). They are all seniors with Dave being the most senior.

The concert was mostly Dave's originals. He charmed the audience with the story behind the title song off his latest album London Flat, London Sharp. The promoter had no sense of world geography and booked Dave on a whirlwind tour consisting of three trips to Europe with San Diego and Philadelphia in between. He was no better with English geography, sending Dave out on a crisscrossing bus tour of England. Dave's complaints about the bus accommodations lead to the rental of a flat in London which was much nicer than the bus but resulted in hours long drives to and from the venues. So it was back on the bus for the band.

The show ended off with Brubeck's timeless classic Take Five, and the crowd gave him a long standing ovation. We managed to get two encores out of the band. The first was a lullaby–a gentle musical joke to tell the audience it's time for old musicians to get to bed. The second encore was Strayhorn's Take the A Train. Despite another protracted standing ovation the lights went up, and the musicians could finally get some well deserved rest.

Bières et Compagnie

The tastefully decorated restaurant at 4350 rue St. Denis is famous for their huge selection of over 100 beers, and all you can eat mussels and fries from Monday to Wednesday. Unfortunately I couldn't time my visit for that Belgian binge. I had to satisfy myself with the Belgian-style white beer on tap, Cheval Blanc, which is brewed by local brewers Les Brasseurs RJ.

Their menu had lots of goodies with beer as part of the ingredients. I tried a modern twist on the traditional Quebec tourtière–a Cajun buffalo meat pie covered in a Hoegaarden witbier cream sauce, served with roast vegetables, and a side of fries with spicy garlic mayonnaise. All very tasty, and they weren''t stingy with the garlic mayo–there was more than enough to dip all the fries. You might think the fries were just a vehicle to carry the addictive spicy garlic mayo–and you would be right!

For dessert I tried the McAuslan apricot wheat ale. Another local brew, it's got a refreshingly dry apricot flavor.

Canadian Centre for Architecture

It's the hottest day yet this week in Montréal with the temperature peaking at 30C. Time to stay indoors and go museum hopping.

The Canadian Centre for Architecture is a short walk from the Guy-Concordia métro station in residential area. It's an understated building presenting a low rectangular profile within the walled grounds. It's row of pyramid skylights are barely visible as they are set quite far back in the centre of the roof. The grounds have simple landscaping with an expanse of grass, a hedge along the building, and a few trees.

The main exhibit is entitled Sense of the City. Each exhibit room contains different sensory aspects of life in the city. From obvious ones like smells and sounds to ones we wouldn't ordinarily think about like touch. A row of flasks contain various odours you might encounter in a city from pleasant like grass, to nauseating like rotting garbage. The sound display compares the sounds of Vancouver in the 1970's to the 1990's. Binaural sound recordings were taken at specific times and places in both decades. The growth and change in Vancouver are immediately obvious to your ears as you lounge on the oversized cushions and listen to the Sennheiser headphones dangling from the ceiling. Touch is represented by asphalt. The sample of pure processed asphalt is almost spongy and yields to finger pressure which in the final product contributes to its comfortableness for walking and driving on.

A much smaller exhibit showcases the work of Vancouver-based landscape architect Cornelia Hahn Oberlander. You may not know her name but you've definitely seen her work. Robson Square Courthouses, UBC Museum of Anthropology, Vancouver Public Library Square, and the National Gallery of Canada are among her many commissions.

Lorraine Demarais Big Band

Spectrum de Montréal
10:00pm

The legendary Spectrum theatre has hosted an incredible variety of acts with everyone from the Afro-Celt Sound System, U2, Miles Davis, Céline Dion, to Weird Al Yankovic gracing the stage. The caberet style seating on the main and mezzanine level means you have to come early for a good spot, and you'll probably be meeting some new people. The bar seating on the sides is not bad either with good sight lines and quick service. The right side bar is better than the left because you are very close to the sound console and are hearing the intended mix.

The Lorraine Demarais Big Band is sounding hot! The large stage easily holds the group consisting of 4 trumpets of various sizes, 4 trombones of various sizes, 5 saxophones of various sizes, bass, drums, and Lorraine on piano. I think it was all original tunes. My limited French combined with my limited knowledge of Chick Corea tunes meant I couldn't determine if Demarais' mention of Chick Corea refered to one of his tunes or if it was her tribute tune to him. Despite the language barrier it was a great two sets of music.

Dieu du Ciel

"Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."
–Benjamin Franklin

Sample a few too many beers here at 29 avenue Laurier Ouest just off boulevard St. Laurent and you really will be seeing the "God of the sky". It's a hard thing to avoid because this has to be the best brewpub Montréal. The only downside is the limited selection of food so fortify yourself elsewhere for that long evening of beer tasting.

Since I had to actually be sober enough to attend a concert tonight I could only sample half their beers. I will have to try to make it back here again to taste the other half.

• Blonde Ale - Their blonde ale has more of an edge than usual with a hint of bitterness and slight sourness.


• Solstice d'été - The seasonal sour wheat beer with raspberries is refreshing in its tartness and fruity raspberry flavor.


• Blanche du paradise - This Belgian Wit beer has flavors of citrus rind, banana, spices, and floral notes. Excellent! The perfect thirst quencher on a humid Montréal summer day!


• American India Pale Ale - A wonderful example of the IPA style. Its strong bitterness is nicely balanced by floral and spice notes. The flavor just lingers on the tongue.


• Stout - Black and full bodied stout tasting of roasted barley, and slightly smokey. A great winter sipper.

Not only is the beer excellent but the patrons are very friendly around here. I had an informative conversation with the assistant to the brewmaster. Apparently he's striking out on his own and will be opening up a brewpub. Also had an entertaining conversation with an older couple from Alabama who were also very knowledgeable about beer.

Île Sainte-Hélène

Time to burn off the meal of over 1/2 pound of smoked meat. A day in a park with lots of area to explore is in order. The old Expo 67 site is now Parc Jean-Drapeau which is composed of two islands–Île Ste-Hélène and Île Notre-Dame–in the St. Lawrence river within view of Vieux Montréal. It's easily accessible by the yellow métro line which was built for Expo 67.

Among the few buildings left from Expo 67 is Buckminister Fuller's iconic geodesic dome. The former United States Pavilion is now known as the Biosphère which houses exhibits on ecology and the environment.

The history on this island extends much further back in time. There are architectural remnants of old colonial days. The fort strategically overlooking the river is now the Stewart Museum. Unfortunately I arrived too late in the day to see the exhibits and costumed recreation of life at the fortifications.

Scattered around the island are interesting large scale art works. The large metal sculpture simply called Man looks like an alien spider robot. The slender white granite columns called Imaginary Village would not look out of place in the background of an episode of Stargate SG-1.

I didn't have time to check out Île Notre-Dame but since the main draws there are the casino and the Grand Prix track I'm probably not missing out on too much. I took the ferry back to Montréal which drops you off at the Jean Cartier Quay in the Vieux Port.

Dunn's Famous

I think I'm becoming addicted to Montréal smoked meat. This is the third lunch in a row featuring cured and smoked beef brisket. Instead of the sandwich, I try Dunn's smoked meat plate. If the regular sandwich doesn't fill you up then the plate with over 1/2 pound of smoked meat, rye bread, pickle, cole slaw, and fries will.

Thanks to the kind staff at Dunn's for confirming what was starting to become apparent to my taste buds in the last two lunches. There is a scale of quality of smoked meat from lean to fatty. Lean smoked meat is healthier but tastes drier. Fatty smoked meat is moist and flavorful but is a heart attack on rye. The popular compromise is medium fat which gives you all the flavor and slightly less of the health risk.

Dunn's smoked meat was good but not as good as Schwartz's, however the service was the best. Dunn's is more of a family-style restaurant with clean, cheery decor and clean, cheery staff.

Coco

The musician who came the farthest to the Montréal Jazz Festival is a young singer from Shanghai. With his delicate manner and higher than tenor voice, Coco reminds me a bit of Jimmy Scott. He performs songs in both Mandarin and English. When I listen to him singing songs from old Shanghai it transports me back to a swanky 1930s jazz club in the Bund.

His own compositions like Mischief are much more modern sounding with elements of scat, free jazz, and vocalese. He gave his scarf to the pianist to place in the piano and mute the lower keys. He's definitely no insipid pop crooner. His band had slightly unusual instrumentation with a violinist on a white open body electric violin, and vibraphones in addition to the usual piano, bass, and drums.

Caribbean Curry House

There's more than just smoked meat on Montréal's ethnic menu. A friend recommended this authentic taste of the tropics. It's located a bit outside the city centre two blocks from the Plamondon métro station at 6892 avenue Victoria. It looks like a very culturally mixed neighbourhood with residents from every part of the world walking around enjoying the evening warmth.

This is not a fancy restaurant. Most customers order to go, or if they stay in get cafeteria style self service. I try the most basic curry beef plate consisting of curry beef and potatoes, rice and beans, salad, deep fried plantain, and a slice of papaya. The curry blend is delicious and unlike any other I've tried. The salad is rather plain until you add the hot sauce. They have a killer hot sauce on the table. It's HOT but you don't notice at first because the sauce is rather flavorful and the heat sneaks up on you. I'm not quite sure what's in it, maybe Scotch bonnet?

To cool the fires, I try the sorrel slushy. It's red, sweet, and tasty with a fragrant quality but the slush ice gives you brain freeze something fierce.

Parc du Mont-Royal

While fitter Montréalers jog and cycle up the winding road and trails I stick with the #11 bus which takes you to the top of the mountain. Mountain is a relative term as the peak is only 233m in elevation which is only 2/3 as high as Burnaby Mountain at 370m.

What Mount Royal lacks in height it makes up for in beauty and facilities. Its formal design holds many ways of enjoying the park. Lac aux Castors (Beaver Lake) is a man-made lake where you can try out a peddle-boat. The Maison Smith holds an exhibit about the history of the park and houses a café. In the nearby field are various abstract sculptures for the visitor to contemplate and puzzle over. Undoubtably, the best views are from the Chalet. The city spreads out below the Chalet plaza. It's a view reminiscent of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak. There are even facilities for the dead–a Protestant and a Catholic cemetaries are located on the mountain.

Further up the mountain is the huge steel membered illuminated cross which can be seen from the city below. There are also two large antenna towers which broadcast TV, radio, and cell phone service down to the city.

This is a beautiful place to be on a hot summer day with lots of shady trees, slightly cooler air, and a breeze.

Schwartz's Delicatessen

There's a line-up at this Montréal institution at 3895 boulevard St. Laurent. Since it's after 1:00pm the wait isn't too bad–only about 15-20 minutes. It's a narrow hole in the wall place, with barely enough width for a long counter and several rows of tables. It's definitely not the decor of plain white walls and fake wood laminate countertop which attract crowds to this place. What everyone comes for can be seen resting on the the large metal trays behind the counter. Steaming hot briskets of smoked meat the size of a man's calf.

Schwartz's smoked meat is different from Ben's. The meat is fattier and milder spiced to let the beef flavour through. The thick cuts of meat are very tender. The strands of brisket are barely held together by the fat and separates easily when the fat melts in your mouth. This culinary wonder may harden your arteries, but it delights the palate and that's worth the risk. Recommended for carnivores everywhere.

Katie Melua / Denzal Sinclaire

The first ticketed concert of the festival is a double bill at Club Soda in the slightly seedy area of rue St. Catherine and boulevard St. Laurent with Katie Melua and Denzal Sinclaire. If jazz doesn't float your boat there's aways the strippers and lap dances down the block. I almost didn't make it into this concert. Not because of the other entertainment choices in the area, but because it was sold out. Hanging out in front of the theatre as showtime passed eventually lead the patient to nirvana. No overpriced ticket from the creepy fat scalper, but a last minute ticket released from the Club Soda box office.

Katie Melua

I'd heard of this young British singer/songwriter but never seen her performing before. She's sounds more like a pop artist than jazz artist but I enjoyed her engaging performance. Her most recognizable tune for me was her hit single The Closest Thing to Crazy which received radio play a few years ago.

Denzal Sinclaire

I had already caught Denzal's show at the Vancouver International Jazz Festival this year at Performance Works on Granville Island. He performed mostly songs from his latest album My One and Only Love in his inimitably smooth and warm style. This show was similar but abbreviated as there was only one set. Which meant that he only had the chance to tell one joke–the turtles and the snail joke–which I think I've heard him tell at every concert I've seen.

France beats Portugal

The cars horns are honking all over downtown Montréal and the French flags are flying. This sets things up for a France versus Italy final. I think I will be spending Sunday in Montréal's Little Italy. Viva Italia!

Underground Montréal

Since the weather was looking questionable with intermittent showers predicted, I tried to see how far I could walk underground. It was also a good way to burn off all that Montréal smoked meat. Starting from the Eaton Place shopping mall, I descended down and headed south. The next area is the complex under Place Ville Marie with more shops and a food court. You can see daylight through the skylights. The Fairmont Queen Elizabeth Hotel is next followed by the concourse of the Central train station. Place Bonaventure marks the southern end of the underground. Since Montréal is an island with slopes to the St. Laurence River, this part of the underground is actually above ground with large windows looking outside.

The passages east to Palais des Congrès are quite interesting. There's art works, and some passages would not look out of place in a science fiction movie. Palais des Congrès itself would make a good set especially its art installation of lipstick pink tree trunks. The underground turns north to through the government offices of Complex Guy-Favreau, on to the Complexe Desjardins shopping centre, and finally ending underneath the jazz festival site at Place des Arts.

It's been an over two hour tour under Montréal. Very nice to get out of the heat and humidity and I suspect during the winter the cold and snow. It would be very possible to live life underground without coming out into daylight or weather but it would be very strange.

Ben's Delicatessen

I've been looking forward to this culinary treat. Real Montréal smoked meat in a real Montréal deli. While you can get the smoked meat in Vancouver (flown in direct from Montréal), you can't get the old fashioned deli ambience. Walking into Ben's at 990 boulevard de Maisonneuve Ouest is like stepping back in time. The interior decor hasn't changed since the 1950's. The staff looks like it hasn't changed since the 1950's either. On the back wall are photographs of some of the famous patrons. I spotted fading black and white photos of Arnold Schwartzenegger, and Gilles Villeneuve. There were many photos of Montreal Canadiens players.

I seated myself at the mustard yellow laminate counter on a worn red vinyl stool. For $12 you get the smoked meat sandwich meal with fries, pickle, cole slaw, and glass of Coke. The large slab of smoked meat is thinly sliced and tastes peppery and satisfyingly salty. Without a doubt this is the real Montréal experience I was hoping for.

Tribute Concert to Paul Simon

Ahead of his jazz festival appearance on the next day a tribute concert was held in honour of Paul Simon.

It seemed like half of Montréal braved the inclement weather to see this free outdoor show. The early evening thundershowers magically ended and the skies cleared just in time. The organizers were so confident of the clear weather that they even took down the tent protecting the sound equipment.

Opened with a poetic tribute to Simon and Garfunkel's first album Wednesday Morning, 3 A.M. read by Leonard Cohen. An incredible array of talent starting with Colin James, followed by Holly Cole, Bedouin Soundclash, Sam Roberts, Jamie Cullen, Elvis Costello, Allan Toussaint, Jim Cuddy of Blue Rodeo, Kevin Parent, Jeri Brown, Zachary Richard, Michel Rivard, Daniel Lanois, and ending with the JB Pumped Singers of Montreal performing a spine tingling a cappella gospel version of Slip Sliding Away. I never realized how many songs Paul Simon wrote until this concert as they sang two hours of his hits.

They recorded the show for later broadcast so look for it on CBC or Bravo! sometime in the future.

Brutopia

There's an incredible selection of beers at this downtown brewpub restaurant. Conveniently located in the heart of the bar district on rue Crescent only a short walk from the Guy-Concordia métro station.

I had a sample of all their beers on tap:

• Extra Blonde - The lightest of their beers.


• Honey Ale - All the honey flavor without the sweetness.


• Nut Brown Ale - Roasted malt.


• India Pale Ale - Crisp, hoppy, and floral. Slightly on the bitter side. Lingers nicely.


• Stout - Very black, very flavorful, and very good.


• Raspberry Blonde - Refreshing raspberry flavor.


• Maple - Subtle maple flavor.


• Cream Ale - An interesting cardamon flavor to this light amber ale.

They have an eclectic selection of bar food with everything from nachos, and quesadillas to edamame, and pakoras.

I really liked their darker beers, the India Pale Ale, Nut Brown Ale, and Stout.

Italy beats Germany

An upset for the host nation as Italy puts Germany away in extra time. There's a few Italian flagged cars driving around honking their horns.

Rue Notre-Dame

After lunch I went for a stroll along rue Notre-Dame. There are many historic buildings along this street especially around the Place d'Armes square. On the south side of the square is the grand Basilique Notre-Dame cathedral. A cathedral of a different order is the original Bank of Montréal on the north side. On the east side is the Art Deco style Aldred Building. The 1960's stark black monolithic Banque Nationale on the west side completes this vignette of Montréal's history and architecture.

Titanic

On a friend's recommendation I went back to Vieux Montréal to seek the Titanic. Tucked away downstairs at 445 rue St Pierre, there are no Celine Dion songs here, just great artisanal sandwiches and light fare. In light of the Italy/Germany World Cup match I had the Italian sandwich with cheese, capicolli, and roasted vegetables drizzled in very good olive oil. To complete the Italian theme, I washed it down with a San Pellegrino Limonata. Great little intimate lunch spot and free Wi-Fi too.

Early Night

Had a bit too much sun, and humidity today. And it hasn't even begun to get warm here yet! Will make it an early night. Too bad I'll have to miss out on the Christine Jensen Quintet and Susi Hyldgaard.

Around the Vieux Port

Just south of the Old City is the Old Port. The Old Port has been converted to tourist use while the real port facilities have moved eastward. The former King Edward Quay now holds the Science Centre and IMAX theatre. On a holiday Monday it's packed with families.

Nearby there's a book fair along the promenade by the river. An endless row of tents and tables hold new and used books, CDs and DVDs. Most of it is in French so my wallet is safe this time around.

Les Trois Brasseurs

What luck! Wandering along the art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants I find myself in front of a brewpub restaurant. The restaurant is in an old and beautifully restored building. Lots of dark wood and brown painted tin ceiling tiles with raised relief detailing give the place an intimate old world club atmosphere. A copper kettle is displayed prominently at the front of the restaurant behind glass. Someone is cleaning it out. A row of steel tanks for fermenting is along the side of the restaurant also behind glass.

They have four beers on tap brewed right on the premises.

• la Blonde - fairly bitter for a lighter beer.


• l'Ambrée - amber beer with a hint of caramel and also a bitter edge.


• la Brune - brown ale with that nice dark roasted malt flavour. The best of the bunch.


• la Blanche - Belgian style white beer. Hints of fruit, slightly sour, and that house style bitterness.

Of course drinking beer on an empty stomach in the heat makes for a short touring day. I try the house specialty, the Flammekueche. I've had something similar in Germany. It's like a thin crust pizza. Naturally I order Quebecoise style which is topped with bacon, onions, and cheese curds. Tasty!

http://www.les3brasseurs.ca

Around Vieux Montréal

The first place of interest is Old Montréal. With its narrow stone lined streets and old restored buildings it's almost like being in Europe. The distinctive sound of horse hooves can be heard in the narrow streets of the old town. The one horse power calèches carry tourists around at a leisurely pace.

It's not just the tourists with their cameras out in this area. I spot a photo shoot with a model in a ballerina outfit posing in front of the starkly angular Pointe-à-Calliere Museum of Archeology and History of Montréal.

Riding the Rails

Time to get my bearings and figure out the way around the city. The Métro system is extensive with four lines snaking their way under Montréal. A weekly pass is $18 and good for unlimited travel on the entire STM network of trains and buses. The Place-des-Arts metro station is conveniently located a block away from the hotel.

Jam Session at the Hyatt

I came in just after 11:00pm to hear the jam in the Salon Jeanne-Mance. With the recent change in Quebec smoking regulations it's now a pleasantly smoke-free environment. The space is a bit cavernous with the stage at the end of a long room. It's quite a professional set up with a raised stage, lighting, monitors, microphones, and a sound man on the console. Dozens of tables are set up cabaret style.

I can't find a seat at the tables, but there are empty seats by the side of the stage so I snag one. This area turns out to be where the musicians congregate. Unlike the jam in Vancouver at O'Doul's, I don't know a single musician in this crowd.

The jam is hosted every night by the John Roney Trio. Roney is a pianist originally from Mississauga. They play for a one hour set. There is a half hour break as Roney chats with musicians and writes the ones who will play into his little black book.

So things don't really get interesting until after 12:30am. Canadian folk great Ron Sexsmith made an appearance and got all Buble on us (his words) and sang two tunes—But Not For Me and Witchcraft.

A young woman from Australia named Christina did her best Etta James impression on At Last.

Kenney Garrett's rhythm section (bass, drums) played with another pianist. They were hot. Just incredible!

Unfortunately it's been a long day and I can't stay awake until 3:00am. Will have to catch the jam another night.

Festival Bargain

The best deal at the festival is La Carte des Amis du Festival. For $12 + GST/QST the Friends of the Festival Card comes with a compilation CD of some the artists performing, a free daily bottle of water, free daily sunscreen, and a free daily back massage, and admission to the nightly jam session.

On the Ground Running

After a long but uneventful flight and check-in to the hotel, I wander straight over to the festival grounds. It's a warm evening in Montréal with a strong gusty wind making the humidity bearable.

The size of the Jazz Festival is overwhelming compared to the Vancouver one. The grounds cover several city blocks—by my guess at least 8. The streets are closed to traffic and there are thousands of people wandering around. Stages are set up around the periphery and in the plaza of the Place Des Arts—9 of them!

It's going to take a bit of time and shoe leather to get my bearings!

A Culture Vulture in Montréal

Yes, things have been inactive around here. But with a temporary change of venue the writing juices are flowing again.

I'm in la Belle Province for the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. With free high-speed Internet access in the Delta Montréal hotel and my Apple PowerBook in tow I'll try to give you my impressions of the city and the festival.

Let the festivities commence!